Monday, February 24, 2014

Red Apple Lipstick ~ Lipstick Review and Swatches ~ Part II

Swatches on white paper, photographed in natural, indoor lighting, no flash

Today I am reviewing and swatching additional Red Apple Lipstick (RAL) colors. Unfortunately, some images (at the end of the post) came out a bit dark, as the weather this time of year can be tricky.

Each item tested below came from a sample that I purchased. The full-sized product might give slightly different results.
  • Crush on Me. RAL describes this lipstick as "a powerful violet-based bright pink. It packs a bold punch with a hint of glitter." Here's what I see:
    • Color: Light, muted, blue-based pink with lilac undertones and icy shimmer. 
    • Coverage: Semi opaque. It applied a bit patchy, and my lips are in good condition (no flakes).
    • Texture: Slippery and soft, perhaps too soft. After I rubbed most of it off with my fingerip, I ended up with stalactites and stalagmites when I spoke, similar to what I get from certain lip gloss formulas.
    • Finish: I didn't see much sparkle, not even in the sun. It does have shimmer, either. Powerful? Not on me. If I had to assign an adjective, I'd call this lipstick demure. If layered the finish remains glossy, but it also takes on a bit of a 60s vibe.
    • Longevity: Color fades about as quickly as lip gloss, as this formula has no traction. I tested this color on clean lips without primer or lip balm.
    • Overall: If you love cool-toned lip gloss, consider sampling Crush On Me. The color looks gorgeous swatched on white paper, but it lightened my lip pigment. 
  • Boys N Berries. RAL describes this lipstick as "violet, fuschia, pink, berry sparkle." I see it almost the same way:
    • Color: Soft damson plum with pink shimmers. Quite beautiful, in fact.
    • Coverage: Sheer.
    • Texture: Oily. But not like the Chanel Rouge Coco Shine formula, more like an oily lip gloss. The texture reminds me of a discontinued line of MUFE lip glosses that were extremely silicony. 
    • Finish: Again, no sparkles. Standing in natural light, especially full sun, brings out the shimmer, though it is not quite as pronounced as Crush On Me. If layered, the finish stays glossy.
    • Longevity: Fades quickly, as it has no traction. If you have pale lip pigment, you might need a lip pencil to keep the color anchored down. If you have medium or dark pigment, this one might not show up on you.
    • Overall: My hands-down favorite of the eight I tried. However, I will likely pass because I already own several nearly-identical colors, some with similar finishes: Chanel RCS Bonheur, NARS Damage, Dior Fasshion Week, and MAC Plumful and Milani Mode (in the lustre formula. Every one of those alternative lipsticks has better staying power.
  • Petal Pusher. RAL describes this lipstick as "satiny smooth ... hot pink." Pretty much.
    • Color: Mid-toned, moderately-bright candy pink with a yellow base. Cool neutral. As I had imagined, Petal Pusher is lighter, more muted, and less red than it's vibrant sister Mix & Mingle.
    • Coverage: Semi opaque.
    • Texture: Cream. Not as slippery as Crush on Me and Boys N Berries.
    • Finish: Shiny with subtle gold shimmers. If layered, remains glossy.
    • Longevity: Two hours. Fades unevenly and leaves behind a pink stain. (From my hand swatches shown later on, Petal Pusher and Rebel stained my skin—I needed to use makeup remover, but I like staining lipsticks). When applied with a brush, lip pencil was not needed.
    • Overall: I liked everything about this lipstick except the color, which was slightly too bright and warm for my complexion. Petal Pusher might be ideal on cool/neutral skin tones (e.g., Light Summers and Bright Winters). 
  • Secrets. "A brilliant sheen with a smooth finish ... pink/fuschia ... with a deep gold shimmer"
    • Color: The pronounced gold undertones turn this pink berry to brown. Neutral, possibly leaning more cool than warm (overall temperature will depend on existing pigment and skin undertone).
    • Coverage: Semi sheer.
    • Texture: Creamy with a bit of a gritty feel. 
    • Finish: Shimmery and shiny at first but dulls to bronze.
    • Longevity: Under 3 hours. No stain.
    • Overall: For neutral skin tones that handle gold well (Soft Summer, Soft Autumn), Secrets might provide a beautiful daytime look.
  • Audrey. "Pink-based neutral shade ... has no sparkle, but amazing shine."
    • Color: Orange-based pink.
    • Coverage: Semi opaque, fairly pigmented.
    • Texture: Cream at first, but warmed up on my skin and became quite migratory. 
    • Finish: Lots of shine, no shimmer. 
    • Longevity: Lasted about 1 hour before it bled into lip lines. I'd recommend a good lip primer and pencil.
    • Overall: Warmest of the 8 colors, maybe a True Autumn tone. I bet my mother would love it. 
  • Plum Sexy Crazy. "Rich red/plum color, it takes on a gold glimmer when applied."
    • Color: Warm bronzed plum.Very pretty.
    • Coverage: Semi opaque, fairly pigmented.
    • Texture: Satin. A little crumbly.
    • Finish: Almost metallic.
    • Longevity: Four hours.
    • Overall: I did not love this formula, but remember it was a sample. The color might harmonize with higher-contrasting, warm or warm-neutral skin tones (Dark Autumns/Dark Winters) or perhaps higher-contrasting Soft Summers who can handle deeper pigments and the gold undertones.
  • Berry Blast. "Blend of raspberry and strawberry with bronze/gold glitter."
    • Color: Warm copper berry.
    • Coverage: Semi opaque, fairly pigmented.
    • Texture: Cream at first, but warmed up on my skin and became as migratory as Audrey. 
    • Finish: Metallic bronze shimmer.
    • Longevity: About 1 hour before it bled outside vermilion border.
    • Overall: Best suited for warm/warm-neutral skin tones, but use a lip brush and apply in thin layers to avoid bleeding.
  • Rebel. "Blue-based red"
    • Color: More brown than blue based, similar to MAC Viva Glam I (original) but warmer.
    • Coverage: Opaque and highly pigmented.
    • Texture: Cream.
    • Finish: Shiny unless blotted down to a stain. 
    • Longevity: Bulletproof.
    • Overall: Very pretty, not for shy types. I could see Rebel on dramatic Soft Summers and Dark Winters.
The gang, indirect sunlight
All 8 on my skin (MAC NW15, or pink porcelain). Taken in direct sunlight

Outdoors, no flash

Audrey, Plum Sexy Crazy, Berry Blast
Plum Sexy Crazy—purple on paper/warm bronzed plum on  my pink skin

Rebel harmonizes with Soft Summer 5.5

Red Apple Lipstick reds: Rebel vs. Cranberry Magic (reviewed here)

Petal Pusher harmonizes with Light Summer 7.3

Red Apple Lipstick's hot pinks: Mix & Mingle (reviewed here) and Petal Pusher

Red Apple Lipstick's sheer, rosy pinks look nice with the True Summer palette


They look good with Soft Summer, too

Boys N Berries seem to be a chameleon, perhaps because it's sheer. On my lips it was cool toned, but swatched on white paper it looked more muted, though not warm.

If you were on Red Apple Lipstick's web site, you might have noticed that Boys N Berries was close in tone to Secrets, with Boys N Berries looking more sparky and Secrets looking like the lighter of the two.


source

That's not what I found. Swatched together on white paper, Secrets is darker and warmer, almost a tiny bit brown, because of its gold shimmer.




For comparison, I added Pinkle Twinkle to the pink parade. Pinkle Twinkle appears almost grey, by comparison.




I am completely undecided as to what skin tones these three might flatter. Possibly all cool/soft skin tones, and almost definitely Soft Summer.




All photos taken by me; all products purchased by me.

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Red Apple Lipstick ~ Lipstick Review and Swatches



Today's review features Red Apple Lipstick lipstick ($23.50, 4.5g), a mineral-based brand in Texas.




I had my eye on Boys N Berries and Petal Pusher, but those colors had been out of stock for a few weeks. Instead, chose what appeared to be three cool-toned shades:

  • Red (Cranberry Magic)
  • Deep pink (Mix & Mingle)
  • Light pink (Pinkle Twinkle)


(L-R) Cranberry Magic, Mix & Mingle, and Pinkle Twinkle photographed in natural, midday light, no flash

(L-R) Cranberry Magic, Mix & Mingle, and Pinkle Twinkle photographed in indirect sunlight

I believe all three of these lipsticks, which are newer in the RAL lineup, all have the same formula. They are all free of gluten, soy, fragrance, and parabens.

Texture: Smooth and creamy with a satin dry down. My lips felt moist for the first couple hours.

Finish: Satin. I'm not sure now many formulas Red Apple Lipstick makes, but from what I have read, some of their lipsticks are glossy, some are sheer, and others have enough shimmer to make them appear metallic or bronzed. Some are also lightly fragranced, but you can filter results for nut and fragrance free lipsticks of those ingredients bother you.

Longevity: When the color faded, it did so fairly evenly, not from the center. A single application lasted around 4 hours before the color needed refreshing. The two darker colors left a modest stain with no bleeding or feathering; however a couple samples I purchased did feather. I will describe them in an upcoming post.

RAL suggests applying their lipsticks at 1/4 to 1/2 intensity (e.g., not straight from bullet to lips), but I found that difficult to do with Cranberry Magic and Mix & Mingle, as both are extremely pigmented.  Even applying with a lip blush and blotting put down vibrant color. I found the easiest way for me to wear these was to dot the bullet a few times on my lips and blend/sheer out with balm and my fingertip.

The following photo shows Cranberry Magic, Mix & Mingle, and Pinkle Twinkle blotted on white paper, to show the colors and undertones.




None of the three lipsticks matches my 12 Tone True Summer palette, but I do like the colors, all fo which are cool or at least cool-neutral. Cranberry Magic, a red berry, seems to harmonize best with TSu colors. It also has the most shimmer of the three, but it isn't that detectable when worn sheer.




Mix & Mingle is fuchsia, whereas I prefer a clear hot pink. Yes, there's a difference. Fuchsia has red undertones, which add warmth. Mix & Mingle harmonizes best with the Light Summer palette below. Applied full strength from the bullet, it might even suit higher-contrasting Bright Winter/Bright Spring complexions. I wish I had Petal Pusher to compare, as I have the feeling Petal Pusher might be more flattering on cool, low/medium-contrasting complexions.




Pinkle Twinkle is a mid-toned, blue-based, greyed-pink lavender. It also contains gold shimmer, which adds warmth. The color reminds me a bit of Dior Lip Addict Extreme in Incognito, although I see no obvious beige in Pinkle Twinkle, so it isn't quite a nude. Overall, this color seems to harmonize best with the more muted Soft Summer palette. The gold overtones definitely direct it toward the autumnal season.


Pinkle Twinkle compared to the 12 Tone Soft Summer fan

Compared to one of the Light Summer sleeves, Mix & Mingle is dairly good at the mid range of the sleeve. However, the deep pigment makes me think it's more suitable for the Bright seasons.


Lipsticks compared to 12 Tone Light Summer fan

Next to Soft Summer, only Pinkle Twinkle harmonizes—the other two look garish by comparison.


Lipsticks compared to 12 Tone Soft Summer fan

Buying lipstick sight unseen can be hard, though most of us have done it. Red Apple Lipstick lets you create your own sample pack. Each pack comes with instructions and a brush. I found the brush useless, though I did use the non-business end to scoop the lipstick out of the bubble.





Red Apple Lipstick samples cost $3.50 each. They are 1/8" thick and contain slightly more product than a sample from White Rabbit Beauty, which Jean sends in an airtight pot for $1. One RAL blister is enough for one day if sampling a sheer color. I could have gotten a few days out of the more pigmented lipsticks, like Vogue. However, the seal on the blister is just a paper sticker. Once peeled off (easy to mangle/doesn't re-stick), the lipstick is exposed to the environment. If you have empty screw-top pots, such as samples used by most mineral brands, consider transferring your RAL lipstick samples to the pot to keep it fresh.





All photos taken by me. All items purchased by me.

Monday, February 17, 2014

Red Apple Lipstick's Rallye Balm ~ Review



I am a self proclaimed lip balm junkie, as you might have witnessed on this blog here and here and here. I recently picked up Red Apple Lipstick (RAL) Rallye Balm ($15) when I was searching for certified gluten-free companies.

The lip balm is firm, creamy (not greasy), vegan, gluten free, soy free, and paraben free. Its Vitamin E is suspended in cold-pressed castor seed oil to nourish lip tissue and ward off free radicals. It also has an SPF of 8.

No ingredient list is provided on the packaging. Only this:




My lips were already in good condition, considering it's been one of the coldest, driest winters in years. I have been using Julie Hewett Camellia Lip Balm for a few years, and if my lips got flaky from wearing matte lipsticks, I just used some balm with a damp toothbrush to deflake.

The reviews for Rallye Balm were so overwhelmingly positive, I couldn't wait to receive it. The minute it arrived, I practically bathed in it. I swiped it on my lips and outside the vermilion border. I also used it around my nose, which was sore from a recent cold.

Bottom half of the tube has a nubby texture for a no-slip grip

After a few days, the raw skin around my nose healed very quickly, but within a week of daily use on my lips, I was disappointed to discover that something in the ingredients, perhaps the physical sunscreen, irritated the skin around my mouth. To be clear, my lips felt fantastic—nourished, smooth, and flake free. It was the skin surrounding my lips, in the corners to be precise, that became red, itchy, and crusty. Thinking this issue must be related to something else, I used even more Rallye Balm to help heal the area. The more I used the more irritated that area became.

If I contain Rallye application to just my lips, I find it to be an excellent lip balm. I also like to use it to sheer out highly-pigmented satin and matte lipsticks, such as RAL's Cranberry Magic.

Rallye Balm has no color or scent.




I also tried some of Red Apple Lipstick's suggested application tips.

Blush: I mixed Rallye Balm with Red Apple Lipstick's Mix & Mingle lipstick on the back of my hand. Then I used my fingertip to dot onto my cheeks and blend. I liked the result, which dried down to a satiny (non sticky) finish. Just a hint of clear, sheer pink.

Eyeliner: I used the technique shown in the following video to make a "gel" eyeliner. Although it worked well, I prefer using water to make a mineral eyeliner. I also don't know how my eyes would react if I used Rallye balm at the lash roots every day. Maybe it would be fine, and maybe I'll try it at some point—a lot of people use castor oil as a lash growth serum.




Eyelid primer: It seems counterproductive to apply an oil-based product under powder eyeshadow, but I tried it nonetheless. I rubbed the bullet directly over my clean eyelids, let it sink in, smoothed it out with my fingertip, and then patted down RAL's Pixie Dust eyeshadow as a base. If your eyelids are very oily, this method might not work for you. It was OK as a primer, but I prefer Paula Dorf.

Bottom line: I wish RAL listed the ingredients on their packaging so I could identify what was irritating the corners of my mouth. It's a very good lip balm, but I can't call it holy grail.

Rallye Balm purchased by me. Photos taken by me. 

Sunday, February 16, 2014

Coming Soon: Red Apple Lipstick Review and Swatches

Red Apple Lipstick purchase ... all gluten free


Did the Everyday Beauty blog drop off your feed for lack of activity? Part of my silence the last year has been due to work. But I also hadn't been feeling my best. It became difficult to muster up the energy—let alone excitement—to put on my face and write about it.

Some of you know I stopped eating gluten a few years back. The dietary change initially improved my health in measurable ways, but about a year ago, my health started to backslide:  Allergies, skin rashes, low energy, etc.

Looking back, there were signs pointing to the problem. A Facebook friend had earlier mentioned that I should consider avoiding gluten in my beauty products. I started reading labels on my lipsticks (the #1 item to be gluten free if you are sensitive), and I thought I had verified that none contained unwanted ingredients, but I didn't know how extensive the "hidden gluten" list was. I also didn't think I needed to be as careful about other products. It's not like I eat my shampoo.

... which was not an entirely true assumption. I touch my hair, and then my fingers could end up in my mouth, such as when rubbing on lip balm or eating fruit. I had been so careful to avoid eating gluten-containing foods, but I was still consuming hidden gluten via some of my beauty products.

When I began to pay closer attention to the ingredients that went into my shampoo, conditioner, styling products, moisturizer, serums, sunscreen, body care, and makeup, I found gluten lurking everywhere. I then quickly discovered how challenging it was to find 100% gluten free products.

I called the customer service department of every brand of beauty product I owned, and most of them said: "We don't add gluten to our products." What they said on the phone was sometimes different from what they'd put in an email (those that chose to respond to me).

I've spent the last several months researching and testing gluten-free skincare, hair care, and cosmetics. The challenge has been finding items that work for me. It seems that "natural" skin and hair care products favor the driest of dry skins. I also don't want my only choice for makeup to be muted, earthy tones that are commonplace among mineral brands. I want skincare that feels silky, without silicones or sludge. I want lipsticks and blushes that are skin-brightening and modern.

Even armed with a list of dozens of nearly unpronounceable ingredient names (see bottom of this article for the full list), I learned that an ingredient list doesn't always tell the whole story. For example, pick up any lipstick box you have hanging around. What ingredient comes close to the end of the list? Tocopherol. That's vitamin E, a fat-soluble chemical that contains antioxidant properties. I learned that tocopherol is sometimes made from wheat germ oil. Sometimes it's not. However, the company doesn't always know whether their tocopherol comes from wheat, soy, rice, or something else.

Just by changing my glutinated products for those I could verify were gluten free, my skin calmed, my eyes became brighter, I lost the allergy-based dark "shiners" under my eyes, the milia bumps disappeared, my hair looked shinier, and my nails grew faster and stronger.

What's next for EDB?

Going forward, articles will largely be the same as what you're used to—reviews, comparisons, and my opinions on various beauty-related things—but the products I review will be gluten free. Not all products will come from certified gluten-free companies. While desirable, I don't think it's completely necessary, when I can still buy Chanel and Dior and (some) MAC lipsticks and not get glutinated.

My next post will feature Red Apple Lipstick's Rallye Balm.

Gluten-containing ingredients

  • AMP-Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • AMP-Isostearoyl Wheat/Corn/Soy Amino Acids
  • Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Barley Ferment Extract Filtrate
  • Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Extract
  • Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate Extract
  • Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Wheat Lees Ferment Filtrate
  • Aspergillus/Soybean/Wheat Germ/ Camellia Sinesis Leaf/Job’s Tears Seed/Rice Germ/Sesame Seed Ferment
  • Avena Sativa (Oat)
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Bran
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Bran Extract
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Meal
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Leaf Extract
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Meal Extract
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Peptide
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Protein Extract
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Starch
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Straw Extract
  • Bacillus/Wheat Bran/Phaseolus Angularis Seed/Prunus Armeniaca Seed/Artemisia Annua
  • Beta glucan
  • Extract/Xanthium Strumarium Fruit
  • Extract/Glycine Soja Seed Ferment Extract
  • Barley (Hordeum Distichim) Extract
  • Barley (Hordeum Distichum) Flour
  • Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Extract
  • Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Flour
  • Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Juice
  • Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Leaf Juice
  • Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Powder
  • Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Root Extract
  • Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Seed Extract
  • Barley Extract
  • Barley Juice
  • Barley Leaf Juice
  • Barley Seed Flour
  • Ceresin (rampant in lipstick)
  • Cetearyl Wheat Bran Glycosides
  • Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides
  • Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl (Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein)
  • Cocoyl (Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein)
  • Colloidal oatmeal
  • Corn Gluten Amono Acids
  • Cyclodextrin
  • Dextrin
  • Dextrin Palmitate (starch, possibly gluten-based)
  • Disodium Wheat Germamido MEA-Sulfosuccinate
  • Disodium Wheat Germamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate
  • Disodium Wheatgermamphodiacetate
  • Dibutylphthalate (DBP), dimethylphthalate (DMP), and diethylphthalate (DEP)
  • Ethyl Wheat Germate
  • Extract of Barley
  • Extract of Barley Root
  • Extract of Barley Seed
  • Hordeum Distichin (Barley) Extract
  • Hordeum Dostichin (Barley) Seed Flour
  • Hordeum Vulgare Extract
  • Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
  • Hydrogenated Wheat Germ Oil
  • Hydrogenated Wheat Getm Oil Unsaponifiables
  • Hydrolyzed Barley Protein
  • Hydrolyzed Malt Extract
  • Hydrolyzed Oat Flour
  • Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
  • Hydrolyzed Oats
  • Hydrolyzed Rye Phytoplacenta Extract
  • Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Bran
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Flour
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten Extract
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Plysiloxane
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG – Propyl Methylsilanediol
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG – Propyl Silanetriol
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol Copolymer
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Dimetgicone PEG-7 Acetate
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Dimetgicone PEG-7 Phosphate Copolymer
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Dimetgicone PEG-20 Acetate Copolymer
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/PVP Crosspolymer
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch
  • Hydroxypropyltrimonium Corn/Wheat/Soy Amino Acids
  • Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate
  • Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch
  • Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Kluyveromyces/ Lactobacillus/ Lactococus/ Leuconostoc/ Saccharomyces/ Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Ferment Filtrate
  • Lactic Acid
  • Lactobacillus/ Oat/ Rye/ Wheat Seed Extract Ferment
  • Lactobacillus/ Rye Flour Ferment
  • Lactobacillus/ Rye Flour Ferment Filtrate
  • Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl (Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein)
  • Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/ Siloxysilicate
  • Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch
  • Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Amino Acids
  • Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
  • Malt Extract (usually barley)
  • Maltodextrin (sometimes corn in US but usually wheat in EU)
  • Oat Fiber
  • Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Pantoea Agglomerans/Wheat Flour Ferment Extract
  • PG-Wheat Protein
  • Polygonum G Fagopytum (Buckwheat) Leaf Extract
  • Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
  • Potassium Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acids
  • Potassium Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
  • Potassium Olivoyl/Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acids
  • Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
  • Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Rye Extract
  • Rye Flour
  • Rye Seed Extract
  • Rye Seed Flour
  • Saccharomyces/ Barley Seed Ferment Extract
  • Saccharomyces/ Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate
  • Secale Cereale (Rye) Seed Extract
  • Secale Cereale (Rye) Seed Flour
  • Secale Cereale (Rye) Phytoplacenta Placenta Culture Extract Filtrate
  • Sodium C8-16 Isoalkylsuccinyl Wheat Sulfonate
  • Sodium Capryloyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Sodium Capryloyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Glutamate
  • Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Glutamate
  • Sodium Cocoyl Oat Amino Acid
  • Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acid
  • Sodium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Sodium Stearoyl Oat Protein
  • Sodium Wheat Germanphoacetate
  • Sodium/ TEA-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Soyamidoethyldimonium/ Trimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Soydimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Steardmnonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Stearyl dimonium hydroxypropy (hydrolyzed wheat protein)
  • Streptococcus Zooepidermicus/ Wheat Peptide Ferment
  • Tocopherol (not all, but many—consider avoiding unless product is certified gluten free)
  • Tocopherol/ Wheat Polypeptides
  • Tocopherol Acetate
  • Trimethyksilyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol Crosspolymer
  • Triticum Aestivum (Wheat) Flour
  • Triticum Aestivum (Wheat) Germ
  • Triticum Aestivum (Wheat) Germ Oil
  • Triticum Aestivum (Wheat) Leaf Extract
  • Triticum Aestivum (Wheat) Peptide
  • Triticum Aestivum (Wheat) Seed Extract
  • Triticum Turgidum Durum (Wheat) Seed Extract
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Bran
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Bran Extract
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Bran Lipids
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Flour Extract
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Flour Lipids
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Protein
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Gluten
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Gluten Extract
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Seed Extract
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Sprout Extract
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Starch
  • Undecylenoyl Wheat Amino Acids
  • Vitamin E (see Tocopherol entries)
  • Wheat Amino Acids
  • Wheat Germ Acid
  • Wheat Germ Glycerides
  • Wheat Germ Oil PEG-40 Butyloctanol Esters
  • Wheat Germ Oil PEG-8 Esters
  • Wheat Germ Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters
  • Wheat Germamide DEA
  • Wheat Germamidopropylkonium Chloride
  • Wheat Germamidopropylkonium Betaine
  • Wheat Germamidopropalkonium Chloride
  • Wheat Germamidopropyl dime thylacine Lactate
  • Wheat Germamidopropyl Epoxypropyldimonium Chloride
  • Wheatgermamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate
  • Wheat Germamidopropylamine Oxide
  • Wheat Germamidopropyldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimethylamine Hydrolyzed Collagen
  • Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimethylamine Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Wheat Germ Glycerides
  • Wheat Germ Oil
  • Wheat Protein
  • Wheat Protein Hydrolysate
  • Xanthan Gum
  • Yeast Extract
  • Zea Mays (Corn) Gluten Protein
  • Zinc Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Monday, November 25, 2013

Lipstick Comparisons: Pinks


Long promised (and long overdue) to the True Summer Sisterhood Facebook group, I present the pink lipstick swatchfest. Pink might seem like an odd color to feature this time of year, but it should not matter. Some of us do not wear autumnal shades well, and as long as the color harmonizes with skin tone, the color cannot be wrong, no matter how warm or cold it is outside, because it looks like YOU—only better.

But if pink seems too springlike, you could choose your version of plum or berry or red or rose.

This will be a pictorial review, not a product review. If I've already featured a lipstick mentioned in this post, I'll include a link to it. Most of those posts will have their own swatches and comparisons.


TOP ROW, left to right:
  • YSL Rouge Volupté Spicy Pink 20
  • MAC Matte Lipstick, Please Me
  • Revlon Revlon® Just Bitten Kissable™ Balm Stain, Honey
  • MAC Matte Lipstick, Pink Plaid
  • Maybelline SuperStay 14HR Lipstick, Perpetual Peony
  • MAC Matte Lipstick, Snob
  • Revlon Matte Lipstick, Pink Pout 002
  • Revlon Color Burst Lip Butter, Berry Smoothie 050
  • Maybelline ColorSensational Lip Color, Pink Wink 105
BOTTOM ROW, left to right:
  • Revlon Matte Lipstick Sky Pink 012
  • Chanel Boy Rouge Coco Shine, Boy 54
  • Chanel Boy Rouge Coco Shine, Fétiche 52
  • Chantecaille Super Sheer Lipstick, Venus
  • Estée Lauder Signature Lipstick, Chelsea Rose 51
  • MAC Lustre Lipstick, Syrup
  • MAC Lustre Lipstick, Lovelorn
  • Bobbi Brown Sheer Lip Color, Cherry Pink
Two swatches that did not make the above group photo will be compared at the bottom of this post:

  • Dior Addict Lipstick, Millie 680
  • MAC Lustre Lipstick, Sweetie

If you're wondering why so few of the above colors have their own post, it's probably because I didn't like them enough to give them that much space. Elea Blake's Dreamy should have made the list, but you can see it here. Perhaps later I can update this post to include some of my newer additions: Chanel Rouge Coco Shine in Rendez-Vous (posted on Facebook here), Trish McEvoy Sheer Lip Color, Vibrant Pink, and a couple more from tarte.

All three Summer palettes

As in the recent past, I will include comparisons to the three SciART-based, 12-Tone Summer palettes. I often find that more important than seeing a good match is seeing a bad one because it helps me unlearn misinformed habits.


After I'd arranged all the swatches and assembled the fans, I was surprised by the number of pink lipsticks that harmonized with the Soft Summer (SSu) palette, shown above.



The same lipsticks did not fare so well with the Light Summer (LSu) fan, a palette that is brighter and more clear than the muted tones of Soft Summer (above).




Though not perfect against the purely-cool hues of the True/Cool Summer (TSu) palette, there were a couple keepers.What I see against the TSu fan is too much brown (I don't see how they can call that YSL lipstick at top left pink). Even more unfortunate for the uncompromising True palette, the brown I see leans orange. Finally, how unfair is it that both SSu and LSu get THREE pink/rose/red strips and True Summer gets only two.

In any case, it is fascinating how a color I  think I see looks completely different in context with other colors.

Soft Summer

I'll start by comparing the pink lipstick swatches to the SSu fan deck, since those colors seem to harmonize best.




MAC's Please Me and Bobbi Brown's Cherry Pink are the the biggest outliers in the above SSu comparison, with the former being too orange and the latter too blue.




Revlon's Sky Pink might be too warm for Soft Summer ... though, as always, existing lip pigment can vastly change the way a lipstick appears. For example, in Facebook's True Summer group, the litmus test lipstick for a TSu color, MAC Plumful, was perfect for some and barely showed up on others.




Chanel Rouge Coco Shine Boy is described as a blue pink, but it doesn't have enough blue for me. It looks perfect next to the Soft Summer 5.1 chip. Fétiche might be a tiny bit too cool for SSus; it's a shade I wear when I want a no-makeup look.


Chantecaille Venus, Estée Lauder Chelsea Rose


MAC Syrup above center, which is often another recommended color for True Summer, is too muted for me. It's a sheer, slightly shimmering, cloudy pink. Ideal for Soft Summers, who do so well enrobed in shadowy mist.




Estée Lauder Chelsea Rose is another soft lipstick, possibly good for Soft Summers, though perhaps too cool. You'd have to try it on to be sure.




MAC Syrup against the ss 5.1 chip. Not too bad.




MAC Lovelorn might be too cool for Soft Summers, but it wasn't cool enough for my True Summer self.




Above are some of my warmest pinks: MAC Please Me, Revlon JustBitten Honey, and MAC Pink Plaid. You could color right over that ss 4.3 chip with Honey. What a great match.




MAC Pink Plaid was a surprise. It looks so cool in the tube, but look at it compared to the 5.5 brick pink of the SSu palette above. It's a bricky (browned) pink to be sure.




The matte MAC Snob looks like a great color for Soft Summers.



Maybelline Perpetual Peony, MAC Snob, Revlon Pink Pout ... all good

Light Summer

And now let's have a look at the lipsticks compared to the Light Summer palette. These will not be as good, but we have to try for our sunny sisters.

No great matches here; the LSu palette is far less muted than SSu

Not so much

MAC Syrup and Lovelorn

MAC Lovelorn

Chanel Boy and Fétiche, Chantecaille Venus, EL Chelsea Rose

Revlon Sky Pink, Chanel Boy and Fétiche, Chantecaille Venus

Revlon Sky Pink + sl 5.1 ... OK, but ...

Revlon Sky Pink + sl 6.2 ... better?

Revlon Berry Smoothie and Maybelline Pink Wink—the best of the bunch

True Summer

Now for the True Summer comparisons.


Chanel Boy and Fétiche, Chantecaille Venus, Estée Lauder Chelsea Rose

Above (and on me) Chanel Rouge Coco Shine in Fétiche (second from left) is a good match. Chantecaille Super Sheer Lipstick in Venus looks like it should be good match, but for a "super sheer" product, it has a white base, so it doesn't work as well against my True Summer skin as it might on a Soft Summer, but your mileage may vary. My existing lip pigment is moderately dark and somewhat blue.


Chantecaille Venus ... decidedly not sheer on me

MAC Syrup

MAC Syrup looks pretty good compared to the sc 2.7 chip, but it's too muted for my lips and coloring.


Bobbi Brown Cherry Pink
I like Bobbi Brown's Cherry Pink, but it contains a whisper of warmth (as do 99.5% of BB products), so I'd almost push this into the coral category. On me. What looks cool on most people isn't always the case on those of us with cold skin tones, where any warmth whatsoever is broadcast in a most unflattering way. This item is also NOT a sheer lipstick, quite vibrant, in fact, so it might move out of Summer altogether into Winter territory.

Chanel Rouge Coco Shine Fétiche ♥
Millie and Sweetie below.


The above two swatches did not make it into the group photo. The horror, because they are so lovely. They are (left to right) Dior Lip Addict Millie 680 and MAC Lustre Sweetie.

Quite harmonious against the TSu palette

Compared to Soft Summer 

And Light Summer (perhaps too blue, though Millie might be OK per sl 7.3)


Sweetie and Millie find a happier home in the True Summer palette.




Though I prefer the Lip Addict formula and packaging, Mille is warmer than MAC Sweetie. In truth neither shows up on my lips much at all, but aren't they pretty? They'd be a good option for the pale lipped, low-contrasting faces among you.


Perhaps there is too much blue in the lipsticks to blend with the SSu  pinks

MAC Sweetie—too cool? Apparently no cool could ever be too cool

Dior Millie—slightly warmer than Sweetie

I hope you enjoyed this post. For other groups of lipstick swatches see the following:
Still to do: Roses and "brights."

All photos taken by me