|source: Film: Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil|
Olivia's Neapolitan ice cream-eye post pushed something I have been thinking about for the last couple weeks to the front of my brain. Anyone who regularly reads this blog probably knows how I feel about nude lipstick (which is part of my "I don't get it" series), but a nude eye .... now that's something entirely different.
Obviously I don't mean truly nude. I wake up with that look every morning, thank you very much.What I mean is an extremely natural, polished eye makeup look, similar to the screen shot I captured above from a film on the NARS web site. I have written to NARS customer service to ask what they used for the model's eye makeup, which I tried to capture in a still screenshot of the film below.
|screenshot taken from NARS web site|
Before I heard back from NARS, I went on a mission to duplicate that look, and it was much harder than I imagined it would be. I would show you swatches of the colors I tested from my own eyeshadow stash, but 1) my Mac is still at the Apple doctor so no photo transfer from camera > computer > blog and 2) the look I seek is so subtle that any swatching would be lost against my skin tone or even on white paper.
Could the NARS model be wearing only powder or foundation on her eyelids (aside from the black eyeliner and mascara)? I thought that at first, but when I looked more closely, I could see very subtle depth in the crease. Here's the short film of the ad. Aside from the silly wind machine and the sexually provocative head turning and gratuitous lip pursing, I really like her makeup:
Maybe such a look occurs on 20 year old skin only! I had my time and now it's over. But I don't think so—surely there's the right beige out there for me, but I don't know what it is. That's where I need your help, and I am hoping that someone out there can recommend a cool-toned light beige/greige, a whisper darker than pale skin, that I can wear in the crease.
My criteria are not legion for this perfect shade I have yet to find:
- I prefer matte and will consider satin formulas
- It has to be light enough that it complements my porcelain-pink (NW15) skin
- The hue must be cool or neutral-cool
- The eyeshadow cannot be warm, golden, or yellow
When I was on the NARS web site, I wondered if NARS Biarritz might be it. I have not yet seem this eyeshadow in person, and it could be more yellow based than it appears online, so I'll have to add this to my list to test. So far, it's the only one on my list!
I also considered NARS Blondie, but I have a strong suspicion it would be too dark and almost certainly too warm (although NARS web site calls it taupe, which implies at least some grey). The following image looks like a warm red-brown to me.
Obviously the eyeshadow does not have to be NARS just because I love the look of the model.
Here are the colors I tested, some of which worked better than others but none of which was The One for my crease:
- Bobbi Brown Cement. This could very nearly be The One if it didn't oxidize. I have this problem frequently with BB eyeshadows and don't know how to stop it. My eyelids aren't even that oily any more. But Cement is certainly exactly what I am looking for ... in the pan. Boo hiss.
- Bobbi Brown Woodrose. Too pink.
- Bobbi Brown Flesh. Too yellow.
- Chanel Slate 88. A perfect complement for my skin but too dark for the nude look.
- Chantecaille Basalt. A slightly lighter dupe of Chanel Slate, but still too dark.
- Chantecaille Pewter (from the Tiger palette). A near-perfect color, but it's too shimmery.
- Ellis Faas Creamy Eyes E107. Too dark and, sadly, too warm.
- Jane Iredale French Toast. A gorgeous pinkish greige, but slightly too light. Discontinued, anyway.
- MAC Wedge. Too warm and dark. Same for Omega, which is darker and even more yellow on me.
- Prescriptives Mushroom. Described as "nude plum" this color used to be The One. I wore it on and off (mostly on) for decades, but now it oxidizes on me, even over Paula Doff primer. I'm disappointed it no longer works because it's still being manufactured and is still available online.
- Shu Uemura M Beige 835. Nearly perfect but slightly too dark. Discontinued.
- Shu Uemura M Beige 804. The color I use as the all-over wash, so it does not work as the crease color. Discontinued.
- Stila Chinois. Too yellow and not enough contrast.
Those of you who are pale or just enjoy wearing pale, natural matte colors, I'd love to hear what your favorite nude crease colors are so I can check them out.
UPDATE 1: Here's what Tanya, a NARS artist told me: "... the list of eye shades used on the model in the Velvet Gloss Lip Pencils [film] were not archived. Based on the film, it looks like she's wearing matte vanilla in India Song Duo Eyeshadow and a light dusting of the pale peach in Key Largo Duo Eyeshadow into the crease and above."
UPDATE 2: The colors used in the NARS film were too warm for me, but I finally found a very good "nude eye" shade combination: Chanel Quartz (or the well-loved Prescriptives Rose Powder) all over as a base, and NARS Violetta (the light shade from the duo or from the Douceurs de Paris palette) in the crease. Since I have a lot of blue in my eyelids, the very pale lavender makes sense. I wish I could get that color as a single. Two other matte lid options are NARS D. Gorgeous and Rouge Bunny Rouge Sweet Dust Seremia.
All photos from the NARS web site