Wednesday, April 4, 2012

Jane Iredale Circle/Delete Concealer #1, Review, Swatches

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Who likes concealer? Does anyone really?

I hate it. I deeply resent it. I find it a necessary evil, yet another step in my morning routine I wish I didn't need. I actually did not need concealer until I hit my mid 40s, when I began to notice that the skin around my eyes appeared darker. At first I thought it was sleep deprivation, but then I learned that the dark hollows were due to thinning skin, a process that occurs as we age.



I get dark sockets at the inner corners of my eyes, closest to my nose, and I also have a little purplish depression at the outer corners. And, of course, underneath, just like the rest of you.

So if I don't want to look tired or petulant, I need to apply something to that area that visually lifts and lightens without drawing additional attention to it.

In trying to find the right color with the right texture, I have almost frenetically played the field. Everything I tried was too dark or too warm or too heavy and cakey or it creased or it made my skin look like crumpled tissue paper. Through experimentation, I discovered that I prefer the finish of concealer/highlighter hybrids, like Yves St. Laurent Touche Eclat or Estee Lauder's Ideal Light Brush-on Illuminator, because they look more natural on me. Instead of leaving an opaque wash of color on the skin, these products feel weightless and are nearly translucent. The luminous particles they contain make it appear as though the skin under my eyes and at the inner corners near my nose is not as dark as it really is. But this isn't a review about illuminating concealers.

With a goal of streamlining (I don't need more than one concealer), I retrieved some of the concealers I rarely used in order to compare them to the one I actually do use, though not every day. I immediately saw that Jane Iredale Circle/Delete Concealer #1 ($30)  was the best of the bunch, as far as matching my skin.

Below is a swatch of Circle/Delete compared to the other concealers that have not yet gone into the Purgatory Box (though they get virtually no use):
  • Laura Geller Real Deal Light
  • Edward Bess Platinum Concealer in Soft Beige (reviewed here)
  • Ellis Faas S201 (reviewed here)
  • Jane Iredale Circle/Delete #1 (swatched both sides of the pan)
As with all the other eleventy billion concealers I've tried over the last few years, all but Circle/Delete were too dark or yellow or peach—though Ellis Faas deserves an honorable mention, or at least second prize, for  its excellent quality and finish—only the color is off for me. Note that although Circle/Delete #1 is yellow (Iredale's #2 color is peach), it quietly announces its yellowness, at least on my pinkish skin.

Circle/Delete comes in a split pan, with a darker and lighter shade, to use individually or to mix

Mineral based, Circle/Delete has a cream-to-powder finish. It feels a bit sticky at first, but it quickly melts into the skin and does not cake or crease on me. Set under the thinnest layer of my beloved Jane Iredale PurePressed mineral foundation (reviewed here and here), the concealer lasts all day.

I use the lighter color around the inner corners of my eyes, a blend of light and medium underneath, and the medium shade alone as a skin tone evener, especially around my nose where I get redness. I apply Circle/Delete with a synthetic paddle-shaped concealer brush (by Jane Iredale). A little goes a very long way, and it has never caused a single breakout.

Minimizing dark circles naturally

Although concealer provides suitable "smoke and mirrors," I prefer to resolve issues at the source, rather than slapping a Band-Aid on top. There are some things we can do (barring deep circles and bags we inherit genetically) to ameliorate dark circles:
  • Don't smoke 
  • Eat healthy
  • Drink plenty of water  
  • Get adequate sleep—at least 8 hours, preferably 9—and sleep in complete darkness (use an eye mask, if necessary)
  • Use sunscreen and wear sunglasses with UVA/UVB protection  
  • Treat allergies (my allergist called my circles "allergy shiners")  
  • Use a Vitamin K cream on the skin (but NOT if you are on blood thinners)  
  • Keep a gel compress in the fridge and place over your closed eyes; alternatively use cold, wet tea bags or cucumber slices 
  • Sleep on your back with your head elevated

Bottom line: Though I don't often wear real concealer, Circle/Delete is still my favorite, more than 10 years after my first purchase.

What is your favorite concealer?

Ingredients: Isopropyl Jojobate, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Beeswax, Silica, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Ozokerite, Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Pinus Strobus (Pine) Bark Extract, Bisabolol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Algae, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate. May Contain: Titanium Dioxide, Mica, Iron Oxides.


26 comments:

  1. The Illamasqua one is pretty good for dark circles.

    The eye area issue which is driving me crazy is that since I hit my mid 40s my lids and eye lid margins have gotten redder and redder. My eyelids look raw and irritated the whole time (although they continue to be as oily as ever). Does anyone have any suggestions for reducing redness?

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    1. I love the pigment of Illamasqua products (blush!) so I will have a look at their concealer next time I am in Sephora.

      As for redness, how odd. And frustrating. Have you ruled out allergies or any other skin condition? And is the red on the upper (movable) lid only or do you also have redness around the skin at the waterline?

      I hate to recommend a concealing product that might exacerbate the raw feeling, but my favorite product of all time for eyelid use, which evens out red and blue and beige discoloration, as well as conceal those dark inner corners where my skin looks pinched, is Paula Dorf Eye Primer in Light. ♥ I've been using it for almost 15 years, and it's seen me through the oily years into the combo-skin years. It also does an outstanding job at concealment.

      If the Light color isn't good for you, it also comes in Deep: http://www.pauladorf.com/p-171-eye-primer.aspx

      Beeswax, Ozokerite, Petrolatum, Propylene Carbonate Quaternium-18 Hectorite, Dimethicone Copolyol, Silica, Propylparaben. May Contain: Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Ultramarines

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  2. Fantastic post! I have genetic dark circles (I have had them my whole life), and while they can be barley there at times (no need for concealer) they can get dark when I'm tired or stressed. I think I might give this Jane Iredale concealer a try.

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    1. Mineral makeup brands often get such a bad rap, but Jane Iredale really makes luxe items. If you have the opportunity to see it in person, I recommend doing so. I have been lucky with foundation powder and eyeshadow purchased online (though I was matched to this concealer in person), but I have had not such good luck with the blushes and lipsticks, all of which are too warm for me—even the blush called Cotton Candy!

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    2. I have seen and played with some Jane Iredale items before- there are a couple of places around here that have the line in stock- so I will definitely have to go look to see if they have this concealer.

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  3. Thanks for this comprehensive (as always!) review, Zuzu. I'm a major JI fan, but have never really considered Circle/Delete before. It's really helpful to see swatches of both colours. You and I have similar skin tones -- I wear Ivory PurePressed, too -- so I particularly appreciate them.

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    1. Oh! Then Circle/Delete #1 would be the one to get. If you prefer the illuminating concealers, JI makes her version (tube with brush) called Active Light. I bought it in two colors: Light Yellow #1 (the same shade as the lighter side of Circle/Delete #1) and Darker Yellow #2 (same shade as the darker side of Circle/Delete #1).

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  4. Predictably, Cle de Peau. Laura Mercier was too yellow, I'm too crepey for minerals. I find the CDP formula very forgiving, almost liquid when applied. And I also sometimes use the pale Sisley foundation when I want to lighten up - it seems to function as concealer quite well.

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    1. I have Clé de Peau concealer in the old packaging (ridged navy tube) in Beige, which is the right hue but too dark, and Ivory was too yellow (story of my life). My CdP is no longer silky, so they either improved the formula when they changed the packaging or mine has gone off (a couple years old but smells fine). I'd replace it if I could get a better match; having it go down like liquid is very appealing to me.

      Laura Mercier *everything* is too yellow for me. Same with Bobbi Brown.

      I haven't been near a Sisley counter in ages. And probably just as well!

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  5. I get along quite well with Clinique Airbrush, it has an opacity that YSL is lacking but still retains some light reflection.

    I am so pleased to have stumbled upon your blog. Like you I have a 'mauve' like tone to my skin which is also prone to flushing.

    I have recently realised that very few if any brown eye colours suit me. Warm toned browns especially unflattering giving me a worn out red eye look. (I always thought blue eyes had to wear brown) So your reviews and comments on cool toned eyeshadows have been invaluably helpful.

    I only wish JI was more accessible where I live I would love to try her mineral powders.

    Thanks for a fabulous, informative blog.
    Helen x

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    1. Helen, thanks! It's nice to find a skin twin, since the blogosphere seems so full of warm-skinned beauties.

      I had completely forgotten about Clinique Airbrush, but I have been meaning to try it. Lisa Eldridge, who has access (and probably owns) the highest-end makeup, loves that little concealer, but you probably already knew that. :^)

      As for Jane Iredale, it still surprises me her products have such limited distribution. It took a long time for her to sell online, but as her products gain in popularity (and blogs will help drive sales) perhaps she will widen her net, because so many of us are out here waiting to get fished in!

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  6. Concealers constantly frustrate me. I'm still on the lookout for a good one. I have genetic dark circles, the skin there is dry, and wrinkly from too much squinting (bad, bad vision, haha). It's a nightmare! And who likes testing out concealers, I ask you? A lot of them give me little bumps under the skin or simply seize up in minutes, providing me with a lovely array of caked in wrinkles and crinkles. It's lovely. Normally I just give up and pat some foundation under the eyes.

    This one is actually very tempting - I like the color, too - though I don't know where I would find Jane Iredale. Nordstrom, perhaps? Thank you for this post and the comparisons!

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    1. Larie, if you're in the US (or even Canada), dermstore sells JI products. To see it in person, you would have to find her line at a salon (usually one that focuses on skin treatments) or at select dermatologist offices. Iredale still has disappointingly limited distribution and her stuff is never discounted!

      Both dermstore.com/dermstore.ca (which ships free) and beauty.com sell her stuff and have a 100% color guarantee. Beauty.com has free returns, so that's where I'd go to try a new product I can only get sight unseen.

      There are other etailers, but I buy most of my Jane from dermstore and/or beauty.com. Hope that helps. :)

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    2. Thank you, that is extremely helpful!

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  7. Great review, I have been wondering about this concealer for a while, you must have known ;) I'll put this one on my to get list now.

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    1. Thanks, Replica, always happy to help. :)

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  8. Like you I didn't need under eye concealers until just a few years ago. I'm severely anemic and that also has contributed to the dark circles. I use the Giorgio Armani Colour Corrector #1-it doesn't cake up on me, but it just takes the edge off. But if I use anything heavier it gets too cakey.

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    1. Thanks for the reminder. I am very interested in trying Armani skin products. I received a tiny sample tube once (( think the color was the memorable name of 4), but it was too dark. I LOVED the texture and finish, though.

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  9. I have a lot of concealers and lately I've been reaching for the Jane Iredale too. It got shoved around and when it came out to play last month it stayed. I usually put a drop of an eye cream on my finger first and then pick up the concealer.

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    1. Marcia, that's a really good idea. I will try that next time.

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  10. I, like you, don't care for concealers. I've tried a ton of them, many more or less successfully, but overall I don't like using them. Every single one I've tried has eventually left me with crepey skin under my eyes, regardless of the eye cream I use. I prefer Touche Eclat, and figure people may just have to acclimate themselves to the fact that I often look petulant. Especially since, truth be told, I often FEEL pretty petulant. :0)

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    1. Shan, I have a hard time believing you could look petulant!

      I still love Touche Eclat, and the like, but I'm going to try Marcia's trick the next time I use Circle/Delete as undereye concealer.

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  11. Nice review. I've been looking around, since I'm not going to be able to afford another tube of Ellis Faas once this one runs out. I was also looking at Laura Mercier's Secret Camo #1 (which I have used and loved), but it's not recommended for under the eyes.

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    1. Under the eyes is *such* a tough call, and so many women have such different experiences with it.

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  12. If you want a good full coverage concealer, Kryolan Dermacolor mini palette is fab. Used on celebs who have much darker circles than you. Also covers birthmarks and such. Comes in a palette of 3 undertones, pink, yellow and olive. Kryolan also manufactures that Llama line you mention...Illmasqua. :p

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    1. Woo! Let's hear it for the push-me-pull-you!

      Thanks, Olivia. I always have Kryolan on my list but never manager to get any. Maye it's because I am not a makeup artist and am not very adept at blending.

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