Sunday, February 16, 2014

Coming Soon: Red Apple Lipstick Review and Swatches

Red Apple Lipstick purchase ... all gluten free


Did the Everyday Beauty blog drop off your feed for lack of activity? Part of my silence the last year has been due to work. But I also hadn't been feeling my best. It became difficult to muster up the energy—let alone excitement—to put on my face and write about it.

Some of you know I stopped eating gluten a few years back. The dietary change initially improved my health in measurable ways, but about a year ago, my health started to backslide:  Allergies, skin rashes, low energy, etc.

Looking back, there were signs pointing to the problem. A Facebook friend had earlier mentioned that I should consider avoiding gluten in my beauty products. I started reading labels on my lipsticks (the #1 item to be gluten free if you are sensitive), and I thought I had verified that none contained unwanted ingredients, but I didn't know how extensive the "hidden gluten" list was. I also didn't think I needed to be as careful about other products. It's not like I eat my shampoo.

... which was not an entirely true assumption. I touch my hair, and then my fingers could end up in my mouth, such as when rubbing on lip balm or eating fruit. I had been so careful to avoid eating gluten-containing foods, but I was still consuming hidden gluten via some of my beauty products.

When I began to pay closer attention to the ingredients that went into my shampoo, conditioner, styling products, moisturizer, serums, sunscreen, body care, and makeup, I found gluten lurking everywhere. I then quickly discovered how challenging it was to find 100% gluten free products.

I called the customer service department of every brand of beauty product I owned, and most of them said: "We don't add gluten to our products." What they said on the phone was sometimes different from what they'd put in an email (those that chose to respond to me).

I've spent the last several months researching and testing gluten-free skincare, hair care, and cosmetics. The challenge has been finding items that work for me. It seems that "natural" skin and hair care products favor the driest of dry skins. I also don't want my only choice for makeup to be muted, earthy tones that are commonplace among mineral brands. I want skincare that feels silky, without silicones or sludge. I want lipsticks and blushes that are skin-brightening and modern.

Even armed with a list of dozens of nearly unpronounceable ingredient names (see bottom of this article for the full list), I learned that an ingredient list doesn't always tell the whole story. For example, pick up any lipstick box you have hanging around. What ingredient comes close to the end of the list? Tocopherol. That's vitamin E, a fat-soluble chemical that contains antioxidant properties. I learned that tocopherol is sometimes made from wheat germ oil. Sometimes it's not. However, the company doesn't always know whether their tocopherol comes from wheat, soy, rice, or something else.

Just by changing my glutinated products for those I could verify were gluten free, my skin calmed, my eyes became brighter, I lost the allergy-based dark "shiners" under my eyes, the milia bumps disappeared, my hair looked shinier, and my nails grew faster and stronger.

What's next for EDB?

Going forward, articles will largely be the same as what you're used to—reviews, comparisons, and my opinions on various beauty-related things—but the products I review will be gluten free. Not all products will come from certified gluten-free companies. While desirable, I don't think it's completely necessary, when I can still buy Chanel and Dior and (some) MAC lipsticks and not get glutinated.

My next post will feature Red Apple Lipstick's Rallye Balm.

Gluten-containing ingredients

  • AMP-Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • AMP-Isostearoyl Wheat/Corn/Soy Amino Acids
  • Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Barley Ferment Extract Filtrate
  • Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Extract
  • Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate Extract
  • Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Wheat Lees Ferment Filtrate
  • Aspergillus/Soybean/Wheat Germ/ Camellia Sinesis Leaf/Job’s Tears Seed/Rice Germ/Sesame Seed Ferment
  • Avena Sativa (Oat)
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Bran
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Bran Extract
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Meal
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Leaf Extract
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Meal Extract
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Peptide
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Protein Extract
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Starch
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Straw Extract
  • Bacillus/Wheat Bran/Phaseolus Angularis Seed/Prunus Armeniaca Seed/Artemisia Annua
  • Beta glucan
  • Extract/Xanthium Strumarium Fruit
  • Extract/Glycine Soja Seed Ferment Extract
  • Barley (Hordeum Distichim) Extract
  • Barley (Hordeum Distichum) Flour
  • Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Extract
  • Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Flour
  • Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Juice
  • Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Leaf Juice
  • Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Powder
  • Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Root Extract
  • Barley (Hordeum Vulgare) Seed Extract
  • Barley Extract
  • Barley Juice
  • Barley Leaf Juice
  • Barley Seed Flour
  • Ceresin (rampant in lipstick)
  • Cetearyl Wheat Bran Glycosides
  • Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides
  • Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl (Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein)
  • Cocoyl (Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein)
  • Colloidal oatmeal
  • Corn Gluten Amono Acids
  • Cyclodextrin
  • Dextrin
  • Dextrin Palmitate (starch, possibly gluten-based)
  • Disodium Wheat Germamido MEA-Sulfosuccinate
  • Disodium Wheat Germamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate
  • Disodium Wheatgermamphodiacetate
  • Dibutylphthalate (DBP), dimethylphthalate (DMP), and diethylphthalate (DEP)
  • Ethyl Wheat Germate
  • Extract of Barley
  • Extract of Barley Root
  • Extract of Barley Seed
  • Hordeum Distichin (Barley) Extract
  • Hordeum Dostichin (Barley) Seed Flour
  • Hordeum Vulgare Extract
  • Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
  • Hydrogenated Wheat Germ Oil
  • Hydrogenated Wheat Getm Oil Unsaponifiables
  • Hydrolyzed Barley Protein
  • Hydrolyzed Malt Extract
  • Hydrolyzed Oat Flour
  • Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
  • Hydrolyzed Oats
  • Hydrolyzed Rye Phytoplacenta Extract
  • Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Bran
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Flour
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten Extract
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Plysiloxane
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG – Propyl Methylsilanediol
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG – Propyl Silanetriol
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol Copolymer
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Dimetgicone PEG-7 Acetate
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Dimetgicone PEG-7 Phosphate Copolymer
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Dimetgicone PEG-20 Acetate Copolymer
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/PVP Crosspolymer
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch
  • Hydroxypropyltrimonium Corn/Wheat/Soy Amino Acids
  • Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate
  • Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch
  • Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Kluyveromyces/ Lactobacillus/ Lactococus/ Leuconostoc/ Saccharomyces/ Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Ferment Filtrate
  • Lactic Acid
  • Lactobacillus/ Oat/ Rye/ Wheat Seed Extract Ferment
  • Lactobacillus/ Rye Flour Ferment
  • Lactobacillus/ Rye Flour Ferment Filtrate
  • Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl (Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein)
  • Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/ Siloxysilicate
  • Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch
  • Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Amino Acids
  • Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
  • Malt Extract (usually barley)
  • Maltodextrin (sometimes corn in US but usually wheat in EU)
  • Oat Fiber
  • Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Pantoea Agglomerans/Wheat Flour Ferment Extract
  • PG-Wheat Protein
  • Polygonum G Fagopytum (Buckwheat) Leaf Extract
  • Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
  • Potassium Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acids
  • Potassium Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
  • Potassium Olivoyl/Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acids
  • Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
  • Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Rye Extract
  • Rye Flour
  • Rye Seed Extract
  • Rye Seed Flour
  • Saccharomyces/ Barley Seed Ferment Extract
  • Saccharomyces/ Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate
  • Secale Cereale (Rye) Seed Extract
  • Secale Cereale (Rye) Seed Flour
  • Secale Cereale (Rye) Phytoplacenta Placenta Culture Extract Filtrate
  • Sodium C8-16 Isoalkylsuccinyl Wheat Sulfonate
  • Sodium Capryloyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Sodium Capryloyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Glutamate
  • Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Glutamate
  • Sodium Cocoyl Oat Amino Acid
  • Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acid
  • Sodium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Sodium Stearoyl Oat Protein
  • Sodium Wheat Germanphoacetate
  • Sodium/ TEA-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Soyamidoethyldimonium/ Trimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Soydimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Steardmnonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Stearyl dimonium hydroxypropy (hydrolyzed wheat protein)
  • Streptococcus Zooepidermicus/ Wheat Peptide Ferment
  • Tocopherol (not all, but many—consider avoiding unless product is certified gluten free)
  • Tocopherol/ Wheat Polypeptides
  • Tocopherol Acetate
  • Trimethyksilyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol Crosspolymer
  • Triticum Aestivum (Wheat) Flour
  • Triticum Aestivum (Wheat) Germ
  • Triticum Aestivum (Wheat) Germ Oil
  • Triticum Aestivum (Wheat) Leaf Extract
  • Triticum Aestivum (Wheat) Peptide
  • Triticum Aestivum (Wheat) Seed Extract
  • Triticum Turgidum Durum (Wheat) Seed Extract
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Bran
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Bran Extract
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Bran Lipids
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Flour Extract
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Flour Lipids
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Protein
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Gluten
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Gluten Extract
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Seed Extract
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Sprout Extract
  • Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Starch
  • Undecylenoyl Wheat Amino Acids
  • Vitamin E (see Tocopherol entries)
  • Wheat Amino Acids
  • Wheat Germ Acid
  • Wheat Germ Glycerides
  • Wheat Germ Oil PEG-40 Butyloctanol Esters
  • Wheat Germ Oil PEG-8 Esters
  • Wheat Germ Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters
  • Wheat Germamide DEA
  • Wheat Germamidopropylkonium Chloride
  • Wheat Germamidopropylkonium Betaine
  • Wheat Germamidopropalkonium Chloride
  • Wheat Germamidopropyl dime thylacine Lactate
  • Wheat Germamidopropyl Epoxypropyldimonium Chloride
  • Wheatgermamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate
  • Wheat Germamidopropylamine Oxide
  • Wheat Germamidopropyldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimethylamine Hydrolyzed Collagen
  • Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimethylamine Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
  • Wheat Germ Glycerides
  • Wheat Germ Oil
  • Wheat Protein
  • Wheat Protein Hydrolysate
  • Xanthan Gum
  • Yeast Extract
  • Zea Mays (Corn) Gluten Protein
  • Zinc Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

16 comments:

  1. Wow - just wow Zuzu! I personally know how draining dealing it can be to deal with chronic health issues. As a mom of a child with severe food allergies (dairy, eggs, peanuts and treenuts) I understand label reading not only for food but for personal care items as well. And yes learning all the words that can mean the common ingredient can be overwhelming. I'd love to see the same labeling changes in personal care products that came about several years ago in food labeling where the common word (milk, eggs, wheat, soy, gluten, etc.) has to be listed in addition to the specific ingredient in the list.
    I hope that you are able to find products and colors that work well for you! I'll be watching for your blog sale as well as I know so many of your items will work color wise for me but that is bittersweet. You've worked so very hard to find colors and textures that are best for you. I am glad to see at least a couple of brands that you've already tried in your gluten-free list (Jane Iredale and elea blake). And seeing Zuzu Luxe at the bottom of the list made me smile - I hope it is a match made in heaven for you.
    Know that you have a cheerleader in your corner as you work through these changes. I am glad that elea blake exists. Before that my experience with more natural cosmetic companies has been that colors were mostly warm and sludgy options that don't work for True Summers at all.

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    1. Hi lov2! You'll be pleased when I start swatching all the many pinks and berries suitable for our coloring. Some, disappointingly, had slight warm undertones (so Light Summers can rejoice), but it just means that I end up a more discerning, simpler selection of products to shorten my morning routine (less choice and all that).

      I dated a boy in college who was allergic to peanuts. I thought, no big deal--he doesn't eat peanut butter. I was later dismayed to find out his peanut allergy meant no Asian restaurants because of the peanut oil used. He was the only person I'd ever heard of with a food allergy. Things sure are different these days, with more allergies and sensitivities than ever before. I guess that's our price for growing up in the plastic age.

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  2. I'm so sorry to hear you have been unwell, I really glad you are on the mend though :)
    I thought it was difficult looking though ingredient lists for potentially acne causing ones but that must take forever looking for gluten derived ones.
    Looking forward to your upcoming posts x

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    1. Hi Clare! Thanks for the well wishes. I am glad to be back, and I certainly have a lot of catching up to do!

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  3. Oh, it's good to hear from you, but I'm very sorry you've been unwell. I can't imagine how difficult it is to be so gluten-sensitive. I await both your blog sale and your new reviews. Always love your posts, my friend!

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    1. Hi, V, so nice to see you! I thought I had the gluten-free thing down, eating a diet almost entirely primal/paleo and organic. It didn't feel like a hardship; in fact, it felt like a completely normal and natural way of eating for me. How silly (and unfortunate) that beauty products turned out to be just as harmful, as doctors never gave that angle much merit. Thank goodness there are some luxe products out there for those of us with sensitivities, available in beautiful colors and packaging.

      I hope your shop is doing well! I'd been intermittently following blogs, and I recently discovered on yours that Donna Tartt had written a new book. Yay! Finally! I was going to say she took a *very* long break between The Secret History (a book I've read multiple times) and The Goldfinch, but I forgot about that one in between, which I didn't care for as much.

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  4. So glad to see you again, Zuzu. I'm sorry you haven't been well. I look forward to reading about your new cosmetic finds.

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    1. Thanks, G. And I am feeling much better now!

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  5. So glad to read you are feeling better, Z! Unbelievable that it takes so much diligence to remain so; but I know you are the woman for the job. The same generous woman that shares what she digs up like a terrier after a prize. This blog will be a great reference for those who are in a similar situation. I have thought about you a few times since your forum closed. Good to hear from you, gf. Be well.

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    1. Thanks, pansapop. I think of you, as well, and I still have moments when I wish I could just pop over to the forum.

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  6. So glad to see you in my feed again! And I'm happy to hear that you are doing better. That is a super intense list...but it seems like you have managed to find some things that are of merit, and I am looking forward to reading about it!

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    1. It's a totally crazy list, isn't it? Mr. Petals went shopping and wouldn't buy an item that contained gluconic acid (he thought it sounded glutenlike), even though as a food additive it is an acidity regulator. Better to be safe than sorry. My diet has this motto: If I can't pick it, dig it out of the ground, net it from the sea, or spear it, I don't eat it!

      I'm probably going overboard with caution, but I decided to wipe it all out and then slowly try a reintroduction phase. I'll probably have my blog sale and then months later wail in remorse. :)

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  7. So excited that you are back! I'm so sorry you've been ill, but I'm glad you figured out what it was and are on the mend. Looking forward to hearing about the products you've found that work for you!

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    1. Thanks, Tracy, I am really looking forward to sharing. I do love a new (to me) niche brand!

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  8. I cannot tell you how HAPPY i am you are back!! and......you are now seeing the hidden schzamm in products and how shopping wisely DOES make a huge difference. I have missed you so!! You just stick with it, and your intelligent style of investigative writing will help not only yourself.....but all of US!!

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I love reading your comments! If you have a specific question or request, please feel free to e-mail me directly. Comments that contain advertising links or shameless plugs will not be published.